Lounging through the heat this morning, awaiting the vote in the 3rd Parliamentary elections, this one the most contentious, between the Marionite christians and the Druzé Muslims, in the mountain districts. This is the vote people anticipate will draw the line between life and business as usual - the ways of these people for the past 2K years - or descent back into the ways of war, and everyone here, in Ras Beirut, a predominantly Muslim part of town, believes, it will be a progress into the ways of peace, democracy, and change, as well as a return to the graft and corruption that people here both loathe and cherish. Loathe because nothing changes. Cherish because nothing changes. Violence is change and uncertainty. No one wants that. So as frustrating as it may be not being able to get your restaurant license the first or second time around, at least you can sell food from the building that's still standing. No one wants the violence to return, that's the feeling on the street.
And the feelings we get, as Americans, is the most welcome, the most friendly and warm. It is as though we are in no way responsible for what everyone knows here is the result of the American administrations' insistence on an agenda that will never work in the Middle East. Ach! So what. Let's get married. Let's eat and enjoy this air and amazing sunset. "I am your best friend." And I believe it. We are blessed to be here, today, when history is getting writ. And what a day.
We traveled north to Jieta Grotto, 20 km out of Beirut, up the hills into the most amazing caves, lie beautifully, then a boat ride through the lower grotto, then home through horn-honking, flag-waving traffic, everyone expecting tomorrow will be a good day.
And what a day tomorrow will be.
I'm so glad you're in Beirut at last and seeing what's what and what's become of it all. I'm enjoying your travels immensely, though I think my focus at work is somewhat impaired because of it. I'm eagerly awaiting the next installment and can't wait to hear what your family has to say about it all. Stay safe!
Posted by: Julie | June 13, 2005 at 11:06 AM