Lastnight talking with Alice's brother, Børre, the mastermind behind the "Levant" website, he told me about his latest 'mission' here - his yearly junket sponsored by the American University to digitize old Arabic texts. This time he worked on 5 manuscripts from the 6th century depicting geometry and astronomy. He said though the texts were badly damaged, he was able to copy them, and was amazed by the renderings of the universe at the time. And in every depiction, the sun was in the wrong position. Børre said he just kept hoping the next on he captured was correct. I can't wait to get back here, if we ever leave, help Børre with the project.
We will miss so many people here. Leaving is almost difficult. Wait, it has been difficult.
Today another trip to the Indian embassy this morning, 11 hours before we're getting on the plane, this time to pay for the visas, not to pick them up, evidently. We arrived at the specified time and the waiting room is already crowded with others looking for or waiting on papers. Our 'guy' catches my eye and motions me to the front of the line, where he promptly grabs our passports from the unlocked cabinet and disappears behind another wall for the longest time, we wait in the heat of the morning and all these people, Leslie still a little unsure about all this, and then he returns, says we haven't yet received clearance but he'll issue the visas anyway. Namasté all around, and 200, 000 ll, and "Please come back at 3:00 to pick up your visas." Thank you.
And the last time is a charm, after arriving almost exactly on time we are asked to wait, for just one more stamp, one more signature, under the largest, single-bladed fan I' ever seen or felt, breaking up almost unbearable heat, in this empty waiting room, told, "Only minutes now, don't panic." And we don't. Wait, like we're told, and then are called to the counter by a different fellow, not the one that owes us 5000ll, but his 'assistant.' And we're given our visas, like that, after pounds of sweat and angst, and not knowing, and praying, and hoping, and knowing somehow we'd get our papers to leave. I mean, if you were a representative of a government from another country, would you want your prey stuck here, and not where you can see to them more closely?
I love Beirut, and will miss it dearly. And Lebanon, and those that have cared for us as much as they have. But we are moving on, soon, with papers, and Inshalla, we'll be in Delhi in the morning.
July 28. Met Melinda this morning while on my walk with Beau. Charming girl! Blue came running (about 100 yds) for his well remembered treat! Melinda gave me your website address and I couldn't wait to browse through your log and photos! I returned June 25 from my month-long trip. 18 days in Northern Spain, Madrid, Segovia and then 12 days in Italy. Will have lots of stories to share but nothing like your wonderful journal! Best regards, John
Posted by: John Martin | July 28, 2005 at 10:00 AM